Thursday, 6 November 2008

Redefining libraries and bars

Teaching has finally begun; in fact I’m almost into my fourth week now. I’m really enjoying it so far although it is certainly proving to be a challenge due to the lack of resources and poor access to materials. It is actually quite shocking and sometimes extremely frustrating. For example the “library” on the literature and education campus consists of four shelves in the corner of a large room, mostly with books on civil engineering. However when you come away from a really fantastic class there’s a real sense of achievement, it’s almost addictive and I can see why people do it for living, (as oppose to an excuse for travelling Latin America!)

A few classroom highlights:

Lesson 1: Somehow I ended up explaining the rules of cricket. I apologise in advance for the gross discredit this may have done to the sport. With the aid of some atrocious stick men and flamboyant acting I think they got the general idea…however I then endeavoured to explain the intricacies of test series and one day internationals and it all went downhill from there.
Lesson 2: There was a power cut, in a classroom with no windows; me versus 50 students. My reading activity was a no go, they were restless and hungry, so quick improvisation resulted in a game of Chinese whispers. “But why are they Chinese….” I don’t bloody know just pass the message on!

Lesson 3: Discussing “problems young people face” we brainstorming ideas on the board; drugs, teenage pregnancy etc. A boy shouts out conduct, as in behaviour. Due to his mispronunciation I heard condom and wrote this on the board, due to everyone’s amusement. I am then asked if this is a sex education class and will there be a practical?!
On the extracurricular front things have also been equally exciting. In order for my blog to be fully informative it was necessary for me to visit the clubs and bars that Coro has to offer – on Thursdays girls don’t pay! I approve. I have spent the last two weekends in Cumarebo which is a little fishing village on the coast about twenty minutes away, where some friends live. Waking up to a view of the clear blue Caribbean Sea only three streets away is pretty hard to beat. The boys decided to take me on some “adventure tourism” which involved a very ancient Ford Dodge with no windows or seats and a trip up to the mountains that dominate the coastline. We hiked up a hill to see the Colombiana Cross at the top which was put there, as legend has it, because on that crest the devil once appeared and the cross protects the village in case he returns. We bathed in a natural pool and I saw a spider as big as my hand. After stopping for some refreshment in a rural shack that had gallantly been labelled a “bar,” we continued on. We climbed on to the roof of an old blue and white colonial church in this tiny village and from there saw the most spectacular view: the lush green rainforest of the mountains contrasting beautifully with the crystalline blue sea in the distance and the landscape peppered with colourful towns. Every village was named after a different saint. My friend’s parents live right by the beach, a little secluded bay that no one else knows about. We went at night and when we turned the torch off all we could see were the millions of stars above us, the lights of the town twinkling in the distance behind us and the occasional sharp flash of clarity from the lightening of a storm out at sea. We went swimming and the sea and the sky seemed to join in a warm blackness in front of us, it felt like you were diving out into the universe every time you jumped a wave, which made me feel very small and very alive all at once…it was one of those unforgettable moments.

The local and regional elections take place on 23rd November and although Commandante Chavez’s position as President is not under threat, it’s going to be a huge event. Politics infiltrates every aspect of life here. You can’t even wear a red t-shirt without being labelled a Chavista. He’s a bit like Marmite – love him or hate him. He unites and divides. A friend works for local government, supporting the socialist missions. I attended a rally he was working at last week. On first appearances it looked like a summer village fete with cheap food being sold, live music and games for children; a second look and you see the soldiers holding back the crazed mothers trying to grab the most free flour and milk, the wheelchairs and prams given out in exchange for loyalty, and the face paint on the children buying the votes of the future. I’ve had many a debate with my friend and in truth I respect both sides of the argument. Peel away the corners of the media portrait and you can see the positive intentions of 21st socialism, but there are many who believe the President holds too much power and that the next step is Communism. For example electricity has been nationalised and last week our house was without it for two days! However I did meet the mayor at the rally who told me I had beautiful eyes – he’s got my vote!

On the domestic front I somehow managed to explain algebraic equations to Lorena, the 12 year old daughter of the family I live with, in Spanish. For those of you who are acquainted with my questionable numeric ability, you will understand that this was possibly my greatest achievement so far! The second being finding some Cadbury’s chocolate, which cost me a small fortune, but well worth the effort for a taste of home, all I needed was some PG Tips to dip it in. I hope November isn’t too gloomy at home, I do think of you all when I’m lying on the beach in 30 degree sunshine…!